Old Delhi on foot, before the shutters go up

Shah Jahan laid out Chandni Chowk in the seventeenth century as the main avenue of his new capital. It is still the spine of Old Delhi, and by eleven it is so full that walking becomes shuffling. Arrive at eight and you have the lanes almost to yourself.

Start at the metro

Chandni Chowk station on the Yellow Line puts you at the western end of the avenue. Taking the metro saves you the drive into streets that were never built for cars, and the walk east to the Red Fort is about a kilometre and a half.

Jama Masjid

The mosque Shah Jahan finished in 1656 sits a short walk south of the avenue, up a broad flight of steps. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times. Shoulders and knees should be covered, shoes come off at the gate, and the courtyard stone gets hot by late morning, so go early here too.

Breakfast in the lanes

Paranthe Wali Gali has been frying stuffed flatbreads for generations, and a plate with potato, radish or paneer filling is the classic order. Nearby stalls sell jalebi hot from the oil and kachori with a sharp potato curry. Eat where the turnover is high and the food comes straight off the heat.

Khari Baoli

At the western end, Khari Baoli is often described as the largest wholesale spice market in Asia. Porters carry sacks through lanes stacked with chillies, cardamom and dried fruit, and the air will make you sneeze. It is a working market, so keep to the side and let the loads pass.

Getting around

Cycle rickshaws are the sensible way between the far ends of Chandni Chowk. Agree the fare before you get in. Keep your phone and wallet in a front pocket, as you would in any crowded market.

The Red Fort is closed on Mondays. If you want to finish there, plan the walk for another day.