Mornings in Rishikesh: yoga, the Beatles Ashram and a waterfall
Rishikesh wakes early. A morning that starts on a yoga mat, passes through a ruined ashram covered in murals, and ends at a waterfall.
Rishikesh calls itself the yoga capital of the world, and in the early morning it is easy to see why. Classes start around sunrise, the river is quiet, and the light comes over the hills behind the eastern bank.
A morning class
Most ashrams and yoga schools offer drop-in classes for visitors, often for a small fee or a donation. You do not need experience; say so at the start and the teacher will adjust. The International Yoga Festival takes over the town each March.
The Beatles Ashram
The ashram of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, where the Beatles stayed in 1968, sits in the forest south of Ram Jhula. Its official name is Chaurasi Kutia, after the meditation huts scattered through the grounds. It has an entry ticket, and the walls are covered in murals left by visiting artists.
Neer Garh waterfall
A short drive towards Laxman Jhula, a path climbs through the forest to the falls at Neer Garh, a series of pools you can wade in. The walk up takes twenty to thirty minutes, and the water is cold whatever the season.
Sunrise at Kunjapuri
For a view over the Himalayan foothills, the temple at Kunjapuri, about an hour’s drive up from town, is a popular sunrise trip. Leave in the dark and take a warm layer.
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